Search most of these names and you get marketplace listings and very little else. This page names each piece, says what it depicts and when it is worn.
The pieces
| Piece | What it is | Motif or meaning | Worn |
|---|---|---|---|
| Junbiri | Crescent pendant | The moon, from jun | Bridal, Bihu, formal |
| Gam kharu | Broad hinged bangle with a clasp | Plain or engraved | In pairs, bridal and formal |
| Dugdugi | Leaf shaped pendant | A leaf form | Formal, often on a red thread |
| Lokaparo | Pendant of two birds back to back | A pair of pigeons | Wedding, formal |
| Jethipata | Pendant in a long leaf shape | Leaf | Formal |
| Thuriya | Earrings, often bell or bud shaped | Varies | Everyday to bridal |
| Keru | Small studded earrings | Varies | Everyday |
| Golpata | Flat collar-style neckpiece | Plate work | Bridal |
| Bena | Crescent piece worn at the throat | Crescent | Bridal |
| Muthi kharu | Narrower bangle worn in numbers | Plain | With gam kharu |
What the pieces are made of
Traditionally gold, often worked over a lac core, which is why an old gam kharu is lighter than its size suggests and why it is repaired rather than melted. Silver gilt is common. Contemporary sets in lighter gold, silver and gold-plated brass are what most people actually buy now, and there is nothing dishonest about that as long as the seller says so.
The lac core matters practically: a piece built that way should not be steamed, ultrasonically cleaned, or left in a hot car.
When each is worn
Bridal is the fullest set: golpata or bena at the throat, junbiri and one or more pendants, gam kharu in a pair, thuriya. Worn with a muga or pat mekhela chador.
Bihu dress uses a lighter selection, most often junbiri and thuriya, with a gamosa.
Everyday is keru and a single chain, if anything.
Buying, and what to ask
Ask what it is made of, in plain words, and whether there is a lac core. Ask whether the piece is hallmarked if it is sold as gold. Ask who made it and where.
A shop that answers all three without hesitating is a shop worth buying from. The Assam Government Emporium and Artfed outlets are a reasonable starting point if you do not have a jeweller you trust yet, and they will not be the cheapest.
Where it is made
Jorhat and Barpeta are the traditional centres for this work. Some pieces are now produced outside Assam to Assamese designs, which is legal and common and is a different thing from being made where the tradition lives.
What we have not verified
Everything in the table above is currently from published sources and general knowledge, not from a maker, and it should not be cited as authoritative until the Jorhat visit has happened. We would rather say that than publish a confident list that turns out to name a piece wrongly.
Related reading
Common questions
- What is junbiri?
- Junbiri is a crescent moon shaped pendant, one of the best known pieces of Assamese traditional jewellery. The name comes from jun, meaning moon. It is worn on a chain or a red thread and appears in both bridal and Bihu dress.
- What is gam kharu?
- Gam kharu is a broad, hinged bangle, traditionally in gold or silver-gilt, with a clasp. It is among the heaviest and most valuable pieces in an Assamese set and is typically worn in a pair.
- What is lokaparo?
- Lokaparo is a pendant showing a pair of birds set back to back, usually pigeons. The name refers to the paired bird motif. It is worn at weddings and on formal occasions.
- What jewellery does an Assamese bride wear?
- A bridal set usually includes junbiri, gam kharu, thuriya earrings, and one or more pendants such as lokaparo, dugdugi or jethipata, worn with a muga or pat mekhela chador. Exact composition varies by family and community.
Written by
Kundan GuptaWrites from Assam. Checks fares and fees in person before publishing.
Kundan Gupta runs Axomor and edits its Northeast India coverage. He is responsible for the accuracy of the guides published here, including checking permit rules, fees and travel logistics against primary sources before they go live.